Several stories up, down a central city side street, Wellington food blogger and cookbook author Laura Vincent is seated on a couch in the spacious loft apartment she shares with partner, Tim Herbert. After a festive photo shoot involving tinsel and Santa hats, followed by some delicious salad and equally tasty craft beer, she’s ready to talk shop. Herbert places an album by American soul music survivor Lee Fields on the record player, and with little prompting, Laura meditates on Christmas and what it means to her. “I have done almost exactly the same thing at Christmas every year since I was a baby,” she says with a reflective smile.
Christmas for Vincent and her family, hailing from the rural town of Waiuku, was, and is, a thing of ritual. Every year they gather with her mother’s relatives for lunch, before heading over to friends for dinner. “I usually make a pudding,” she says. Aside from food, there is a lot of group singing, and a box of well-loved Christmas CDs and cassette tapes dating back to the 1980s.
This year, as per tradition, she intends to return home again, offering the proviso that she might go to Herbert’s family home for Boxing Day. “I only go home about once a year,” she admits with a laugh. “I’m not a very good daughter, so it feels important that I’m always there for this.”
Vincent is recognisable within the local food media landscape for her blog Hungry and Frozen, a concept that made the jump from digital to physical at the end of August this year when Penguin published her first cookbook, Hungry & Frozen: 150+ oh-so-delicious recipes, from fast to fancy. A prolific diary writer throughout childhood, Vincent feels like she had always been searching for an audience and an outlet in one way or another. “I think it was always there – my need to share my life, what I’m doing, and I guess cook as well,” she muses. “The blog just became the home for it.”
In 2006, after Vincent returned from a gap year in England (where she met Herbert), writing on the Internet presented itself to her while the couple were both studying at Victoria University. “Tim was working all of these ridiculous shifts at McDonald’s. He wouldn’t finish until midnight,” she recalls. “I had a lot of time to myself, and I found these blogs. There was one run by an Australian woman who was cooking every single recipe from Nigella Lawson’s book How to Eat. There was another by this guy in New York. He wrote about music and pop culture. He would obsessively recap every America’s Next Top Model episode, or write deep-think pieces breaking down a Mariah Carey song. I loved that he was passionate about things that might not be seen as fine art.”
Inspired, she started a blog herself, posting meal recipes and photographs, and her own observations about life and popular culture. “The photos were terrible, but the writing was fine,” she laughs. “As soon as I started it, it made sense. It was like it had always been there.”
Soon after launching Hungry and Frozen (named after a line from her favourite musical, Rent) as a blog, Vincent joined Twitter, and began networking and promoting her writing. Through these two platforms she developed her funny-yet-thoughtful written voice. “I respond really well to people who are honest, open and vulnerable about themselves,” she says. “At the same time, I understand that not everyone might want to talk about themselves. Everyone doesn’t have to share everything, but sometimes it’s nice because it makes you realise how universal some experiences are.”
Three years later, with a steady following of readers checking in weekly, things stepped up a notch. At the time, Herbert, having moved on from McDonald’s to Starbucks, really wanted to find a better workplace. With a decent day job under her belt, Vincent offered to support him during his search for more gainful employment. While Herbert was out there hunting, Vincent mentioned in a blog post that he was looking for work. “I got an email from the Sunday Star Times,” she says. “They said, ‘This isn’t a job as such, but we read about how Tim quit his job. We like you, so would you guys like to be our new café reviewers?’” Herbert has since found a new job, and the two have tag-teamed writing reviews ever since. “It has gotten me through so many doors,” Vincent enthuses. “No matter what people say about newspapers, there is something about being attached to one that is quite useful.”
Between blogging and reviewing for the Sunday Star Times, Laura began to consider seriously pursuing a childhood dream: authoring her own cookbook. To prepare for this she started really stepping up development of her recipes, and applied herself to writing like never before. “I tried really hard to make myself as easy as possible for a publisher to come along and pick up,” she admits.
In January 2012, vincent received an email from Penguin asking if she would consider writing a book for them. I think the email I sent back was way too long,” she laughs. “It was like, here is the story of my life, and here are all of my feelings. Luckily, they replied.” Describing the process of pitching her cookbook idea as comparable to moving up stages in a vintage platform video game, Vincent says that come May 2012 Hungry & Frozen: 150+ oh-so-delicious recipes, from fast to fancy was confirmed and signed off on. All that remained was completely developing the recipes, writing them, and shooting the imagery.
Quitting her day job to focus on the project, and with the assistance of Herbert, photographers Kim Laurenson and Jason Aldous, and stylist Kate McLeod, Vincent finished the writing and imagery over three intensive months. “For quite a while I would take my laptop to Customs Brew Bar or Six Barrel Soda Co., write for three hours, then come home and test recipes,” she recalls. In the process, she came to realise the massive responsibility inherent in authoring a cookbook. “Even though you could see it as a relatively frivolous item, you’re telling people how to make a particular meal, so it actually has to work… It’s got to be foolproof.”
Thankfully, the mixture of recipes for mouth-watering brunch, dinner, baked foods and longer weekend project dishes contained within its pages are exactly that. Equally importantly, the enthusiasm and character with which Vincent presents them points to her deeper love of food. “When I was in fourth form I caught a bit of Nigella Lawson’s television show,” she says. “She was so different to everything I had seen before. I realised then that I hadn’t seen a lot of passion, love and humanity in cooking shows or cookbooks. A lot of them were really dry and sterile. You could trust them, but they didn’t have personality. You didn’t get to know why a recipe was in there, or what it meant to the author. I wanted to bring context and feeling into it.” Suffice it to say, Vincent’s dishes – including cheese brownie, noodles with miso butter and spring onions, halloumi cheesecake, and a variety of ice creams – accomplish exactly that.
A pivotal assistant when it came to logistics, spreadsheets and seeing the bigger picture, Herbert also got to eat the food, and fittingly, wash up all the dishes. However, it’s important to note that, while he gets to partake in Vincent’s creations, feeding him isn’t her primary motive. “It’s not like, I must cook for my man love,” Vincent laughs. “I just love to cook, and Tim happens to be there… I like to cook because I like to cook. Cooking is a really nice thing to do for yourself. You’re taking time out for you – really valuing yourself.”
A self-described small-town girl with big-city dreams, Vincent has VLaura incent has seen her reality begin to catch up with her dreams in the years following the launch of her blog. “When I was a student I was spending my course-related costs on pomegranates. Our house was damp, falling to bits, and full of spiders, but we ate pretty well… Now I’m a published author. I can literally say that. I wish I could go back and tell my teenage self that. I love our flat, and I live in the city like I always wanted to,” she says. “What I would like to be able to do is make a living off this one day. I have a day job, because I have to pay for rent, bills, coffee and craft beer, but it would be nice to be able to write more and not be so rushed… I think [as an overall brand] Hungry and Frozen is about having ridiculous goals, and then trying to turn them into things that actually happen.”
[info] hungryandfrozen.comHungry & Frozen: 150+ oh-so-delicious recipes, from fast to fancy is available in stores now.[/info]
Christmas salad of asparagus, beans, pomegranate, basil and marinated feta
Ingredients
- ½ red onion
- 200g feta
- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 tsp fennel seeds
- 2 tsp coriander seeds
- 1 bunch asparagus, ends trimmed
- 150g green beans, ends trimmed
- 1 red capsicum, finely sliced
- 1 pomegranate
- 300g packet cos lettuce leaves
- 1 large handful basil leaves, whole
- ⅓ cup hazelnuts
Method
- Very finely slice the red onion, and crumble the feta. Place both in a bowl and mix in the vinegar, olive oil, lemon juice, sugar, and fennel and coriander seeds. Pour over a little more vinegar and olive oil if the mixture looks like it needs it. Allow to sit for at least an hour to let the acid soften the harsh onion flavour (truly, it works!) and the spices to permeate the feta.
- Slice the asparagus and beans into pieces roughly 3cm long. Place in a pan with ¼ cup water, cover with a lid and cook over a low heat, just until the water has almost entirely evaporated. Remove from the heat.
- In a large bowl, mix together the capsicum, the seeds of the pomegranate, the lettuce and basil leaves, and the hazelnuts. The best way to get the seeds out of the pomegranate is to halve it and smack each half repeatedly over a bowl with a wooden spoon. It feels odd, but it does the trick.
- Stir the asparagus and beans into the bowl, and finally the feta and red onion, scraping in every last bit of the marinade. Stir carefully, adding a little salt or more olive oil if you like, and serve.
Serves 4
Christmas pulled pork
I know pulled pork isn’t necessarily what springs to mind for a traditional Christmas meal; in fact, it’s probably pretty far down the food chain after turkey, chicken and so on and so forth. However, I have endeavoured to imbue this tender, shredded pork with so much Decemberific flavour that you can’t help but wonder why we ever bothered with turkey in the first place. And, if Christmas isn’t part of your life, you could of course change the title and just call it cranberry cinnamon pulled pork (which somehow sounds even Christmassier, sorry!)
Ingredients
- 2kg of belly-cut pork or just plain pork shoulder
- 2 tsp ground cinnamon
- 2 tsp ground ginger
- 3 or 4 cloves (or ½ tsp ground cloves)
- 1 tsp mustard powder
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- A pinch of salt
- ¼ cup strong black coffee
- 2 tbsp Cointreau (or the zest and juice of an orange)
- 2 tbsp tomato-based chutney or tomato paste
- A handful of dried cranberries
Method
- Heat your oven to 140˚C and place the pork in an oven dish. I have a theory that ceramic or glass ones are best for slow cooking as they don’t conduct heat so well as, say, metal or enamel. But really, just an oven dish of some description is what you want.
- Mix together the spices, sugar and salt in a small bowl, and spoon nearly all of it over the cut side of the pork. Then turn the pork over and rub the remaining mixture into the fat. Cook the pork, fat side up, for four hours.
- Mix together the coffee, Cointreau and chutney. Tip this into the roasting dish once the four hours are up, sprinkle over the cranberries, and cover the dish tightly with tinfoil. Reduce the heat to 130˚C and cook for another half-hour or so.
- Once this time is up, remove the tinfoil and carefully shred the pork to pieces, including the crackling (unless it makes you feel icky) – I use a fork and a pair of tongs. Stir the pork through all the sauce and fattened cranberries, and then serve with masses of pride and all the usual trimmings – or some fresh rolls and home-made slaw if you are heading to the beach.
Hungry & Frozen Christmas Cake
As much as marketing would have you believe it, not everyone’s granny has a tried and tested Christmas cake. If you are in the position of not having a reliable recipe to hand, but you want to try said hand at making a fruitcake, why not let mine be your new tradition? Ooh, now who’s using marketing speak! But really, this is a brilliant cake. It has rummy, gingery depth and lasts pretty much forever, as a good Christmas cake ought to.
Ingredients
Dried fruit
- 700g sultanas
- 300g dried pears, dried apricots or dried apples (or a mix)
- 375ml bottle ginger beer
- ½ cup rum, plus extra for soaking later
Cake
- 300g butter
- 100g brown sugar
- 1 can sweetened condensed milk
- 1 tbsp cinnamon
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- ½ tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground cloves
- 1 tsp Boyajian orange oil, or the zest of an orange
- 1 tsp baking soda
- 1 tbsp cocoa
- 2 free-range eggs
- 300g flour
Method
- Place the sultanas and dried pears in a large bowl, and tip in the ginger beer and rum. Leave overnight. Drain the fruit and retain ½ cup of soaking liquid for the cake recipe. Don’t discard the rest: keep it to pour over the baked cake later.
- Line the base of a 23cm cake tin with a double layer of baking paper and then, as best you can, line the sides. Pull out a long piece of the baking paper, fold it in half lengthways, make it into a loop and then shove it into the cake tin so it looms evenly out of the tin by several centimetres, and hope for the best – that tends to work for me.
- Melt the butter, sugar, condensed milk and spices together gently. Remove from the heat, stir in the fruit and the ½ cup of soaking liquid, the orange oil or zest, the baking soda and the cocoa. It might fizz up a bit at this point. Beat in the eggs, then carefully sift and stir in the flour, making sure there are no lumps.
- Tip the mixture into your prepared tin, and bake at 140˚C for 2½ hours – though check after two hours. Pierce it at various intervals with either a cake tester or a piece of dried spaghetti once it’s cooked, then tip over a capful or three of rum. Ice how you please, or leave perfectly plain.