The Larder

The Larder

In the day­time, The Larder’s plain decor and food cab­in­ets suit its descrip­tion as a diner or cof­fee shop, but after dark it has lofti­er ambi­tions. After all, few cof­fee shops start the meal with an amuse-bouche, but we were served demi­tasses of sweet­corn soup with pars­­ley-infused olive oil. The emphas­is was on ‘sweet’, though […]

Tom’s May Café

Rel­at­ive new­comers Maranui and Spruce Goose might get the views and the queues, but Ele­ments is still quietly serving brunch and lunch to Lyall Bay loc­als. The menu is hearty yet soph­ist­ic­ated, offer­ing goat’s‑cheese soufflé and a salad of bal­sam­ic roast pear, fig, baby spin­ach and smoked brinza cheese, as well as old-school break­fast standards […]

Tom’s Café pick for April

Many fea­tures of Poneke betray its Mojo her­it­age, but with some not­able dif­fer­ences. For a start, the Mar­tin Bos­ley influ­ence means that there’s more emphas­is on meals, not just cof­fee and snacks. Among the high­lights are grilled sour­dough bread with roas­ted feta and grapes, and a deli­ciously light and mari­time take on pizza (smoked kahawai […]

Food: Cheap Eats 2015

Food: Cheap Eats 2015

And by cas­u­al, I really mean cas­u­al. Some crit­ics con­sider a res­taur­ant with $40 mains ‘cas­u­al’ if the som­meli­er isn’t French, but for the major­ity of us it means we’re in danger of ketch­up stains, spilt BYO Shiraz and the occa­sion­al seagull attack. The biggest trend I noticed while select­ing a new batch of cheap […]

Whitebait

Whitebait

We’re told that White­bait is not just a relo­cated White House; it’s part of the trend away from stil­ted ‘fine din­ing’ to a more cas­u­al exper­i­ence, though still with high-end food and pri­cing. There are no cer­tainly no white table­cloths, but there’s also no mis­tak­ing this for a ram­bunc­tious diner. The con­ver­sa­tion was a polite, […]

The Bresolin

The Bresolin

I was over­joyed when I first heard that the Bresolin boys were tak­ing over the old Bodega: if any­one had the skills and repu­ta­tion to make a slightly fringe loc­a­tion suc­cess­ful, it was them. My only dis­ap­point­ment was that the ori­gin­al concept was a relo­cated Crazy Horse, and I doubted that an upmar­ket steak­house would […]

Tom’s March café

I’ve gen­er­ally been dis­mayed by the inex­or­able south­ward creep of chain cafés along Cuba Street, but I’ll make an excep­tion for Kaf­fee Eis. They took over a space that had seemed cursed after a couple of hil­ari­ously bad res­taur­ants, and had the pro­fes­sion­al­ism to make it work. It has a wider appeal than either the […]

Cicio Cacio Osteria

Cicio Cacio Osteria

There are many pleas­ures to be had down dark alley­ways in New­town, but few of them are leg­al. One excep­tion has always been the nar­row arcade off Rid­di­ford Street, which has been home to a string of European res­taur­ants over the dec­ades, most not­ably (for those with long memor­ies) The Swiss Chalet. It is into […]

Mexico

Mexico

I was ini­tially puzzled by the buzz among my friends about Mexico’s immin­ent open­ing: they’re not nor­mally the type to get excited by chain res­taur­ants with branches in Taka­puna and Hamilton. Then I saw the menu and under­stood the hype. The dishes looked more innov­at­ive and bet­ter presen­ted than most Mex­ic­an food in Wel­ling­ton. Queues […]

Waimea

Waimea

This review required some men­tal time travel on my behalf, because while this issue will come out in early sum­mer, we dined in the depths of winter. We tried to ima­gine gaz­ing out across the dunes towards a golden sun­set, Kapiti Island cast into glor­i­ous sil­hou­ette as the last rays stroked the sky… but our […]

1 2 3