Say hello to halloumi

Say hello to halloumi

After fla­vour, I con­sider tex­ture to be the most import­ant ele­ment of any recipe. This salad com­bines three lay­ers of my favour­ite tex­ture — crisply crunchy, prefer­ably from being recently fried — to make some­thing very simple but rather spec­tac­u­lar. As the weath­er gets colder, it can start to feel like there’s lit­er­ally noth­ing fresh […]

Sweet tooth

Sweet tooth

Being born in April, one’s mind can’t help but turn, cur­rently, to thoughts of cake. Actu­ally, my mind turns to thoughts of cake most days of the year. For those of you who aren’t April babies, there’s still a gen­er­al sweet-tooth mood in the air with the pres­ence of East­er eggs — which have inev­it­ably been […]

Last of the summer vines

Last of the summer vines

There’s a par­tic­u­lar kind of Itali­an recipe that I love, where there are hardly any ingredi­ents and it’s all so aggress­ively simple that it feels like it almost shouldn’t work, but it’s done so well that it’s far prefer­able to any­thing more fussy. This is one such recipe. It’s based on some­thing I found many […]

Herald of summer

Herald of summer

I love tra­di­tion­al asparagus rolls, and will guard a plate of them pos­sess­ively while rap­idly deplet­ing its con­tents if they’re ever served up at a party. How­ever, asparagus sold in spindly green bundles, her­ald­ing summer’s arrival, is some­thing else alto­geth­er. Here it’s strewn across puff pastry and blas­ted in the oven, trans­form­ing its stringy, grassy […]

Summer sago

Summer sago

I didn’t know what to make of sago when I first encountered it — strange slip­pery see-through little bubbles, like shiny beads or bubbles in a rock pool or, well, frogs’ eggs. If you allow your­self to embrace the tex­ture though, rather than fear it, you’ll grow to love this strange stuff. Espe­cially when it’s […]

Spring sweetness

Spring sweetness

Septem­ber is that strange time when spring is offi­cially here but winter is still insist­ing on mak­ing itself felt. You’re either freez­ing and rain-soaked or skip­ping through mead­ows gath­er­ing flowers with baby lambs, you know? These pan­cakes are per­fect whatever’s hap­pen­ing out­side, using sweet, fra­grant, new sea­son apricots and warm, spicy cin­na­mon. The apricots turn […]